All I wanna say in this post is… I was born to surf and why haven’t I done this earlier?
Flew into Costa Rica from San Francisco (via Houston) and the friendly driver picked me up from the airport at 22:00hrs. A 1.5hrs drive west-wards towards the Pacific Ocean landed us at School of the World, a Surf/Spanish/Yoga/Photography camp located in Jaco. As the staff had all clocked out by the time I arrived at midnight, two of the students waited up for me. Which was really sweet. Thank you, Gemma & Mike. Checked into my room and went out for a little chitty chatty before we all decided it was getting late. My inaugural surf lesson started at 10:30hrs so I needed plenty of sleep for that.
Waking up at 09:00hrs am this morning, I met my other counterparts. It had rained during the night and the first group of surfers had experienced sightings of crocodiles and everyone agreed the waves weren’t as good. But we decided to head out to Playa Jaco anyway and try our luck. So we did. And I’m glad we all did because I caught my very first wave on the first ride! Stoked. Completely stoked as hell. Someone’s Costa Rica trip just got better.
Motto for the rest of the week? “Stand and Deliver”. Amen.
I felt powerful and free as I rode the waves over and over again. After the 2 hour lesson, I was completely shattered. We went back to the school and found out that our Spanish teacher had to take an emergency day off. Great! No lessons!
That can only mean one thing – a LONG LONG lunch. We stuffed our faces with delicious seafood sandwiches (I had a Wahoo sarnie which was the bee’s knees) at the Taco Seafood Bar down the road. It was orgasmic.
Got back, had a dip in the pool whilst the Costa Rican sun shone brightly and chatted with Mike, Steven & Matt. I was still buzzing from my morning’s performance. Well. I still am. I shall never forget that moment.
We’re waiting around the open-spaced kitchen area now for the others to finish their Yoga class at 18:00hrs. Then it’s dinner and probably bedtime for the Lim Meister General. Tomorrow, I surf at 11:30hrs. I can’t hardly wait.