Woke up to the sun shining on my face and both limbs sore as hell. After a power breakfast made up of delicious muesli and a cup of tea, we headed out to Playa Jaco for more surf fun.
Today, my board was slightly smaller (that means I am advancing) and we were taught how to wax them. The waves were incredible. Trying to peddle out AND stay afloat on the board was a right mission. At one point, a massive wave came towards us and our instructors shouted for us to “jump off!” – which we did – right into the ocean’s washing machine on full speed. I must have drank half the ocean.
Managed to catch the mother of all waves and felt like I was gliding like a pro! Unfortunately, I lost focus (and balance), panicked and fell sideways pulling the board with me and ended up hitting my lips against the fins! I started bleeding and the thought of my blood dripping into the waters only gave me the jitters – what if an all-sensing and hungry shark smelt that from afar? OMG. I peddled as hard as I could towards shore whilst the saltwater did an amazing job of disinfecting my wound.
So I ended up chill-laxing on the beach, got myself a tan and headed back with the rest when they were all done. Came back, showered in a rush and turned up for Spanish lesson late. Story of my life.
Been lazing on the hammock chatting with the group and will be heading out for Matt’s leaving drinks tonight. Tomorrow, we are all going on an early morning field trip consisting of kayaking and snorkeling and for the very first time, all 2 surf groups will surf at the same time after. We are all very excited.
Til then, buenas noches y hasta manana.