Woke up to the sun shining on my face and both limbs sore as hell. After a power breakfast made up of delicious muesli and a cup of tea, we headed out to Playa Jaco for more surf fun.
Today, my board was slightly smaller (that means I am advancing) and we were taught how to wax them. The waves were incredible. Trying to peddle out AND stay afloat on the board was a right mission. At one point, a massive wave came towards us and our instructors shouted for us to “jump off!” – which we did – right into the ocean’s washing machine on full speed. I must have drank half the ocean.
Managed to catch the mother of all waves and felt like I was gliding like a pro! Unfortunately, I lost focus (and balance), panicked and fell sideways pulling the board with me and ended up hitting my lips against the fins! I started bleeding and the thought of my blood dripping into the waters only gave me the jitters – what if an all-sensing and hungry shark smelt that from afar? OMG. I peddled as hard as I could towards shore whilst the saltwater did an amazing job of disinfecting my wound.
So I ended up chill-laxing on the beach, got myself a tan and headed back with the rest when they were all done. Came back, showered in a rush and turned up for Spanish lesson late. Story of my life.
Been lazing on the hammock chatting with the group and will be heading out for Matt’s leaving drinks tonight. Tomorrow, we are all going on an early morning field trip consisting of kayaking and snorkeling and for the very first time, all 2 surf groups will surf at the same time after. We are all very excited.
Til then, buenas noches y hasta manana.
All I wanna say in this post is… I was born to surf and why haven’t I done this earlier?
Flew into Costa Rica from San Francisco (via Houston) and the friendly driver picked me up from the airport at 22:00hrs. A 1.5hrs drive west-wards towards the Pacific Ocean landed us at School of the World, a Surf/Spanish/Yoga/Photography camp located in Jaco. As the staff had all clocked out by the time I arrived at midnight, two of the students waited up for me. Which was really sweet. Thank you, Gemma & Mike. Checked into my room and went out for a little chitty chatty before we all decided it was getting late. My inaugural surf lesson started at 10:30hrs so I needed plenty of sleep for that.
Waking up at 09:00hrs am this morning, I met my other counterparts. It had rained during the night and the first group of surfers had experienced sightings of crocodiles and everyone agreed the waves weren’t as good. But we decided to head out to Playa Jaco anyway and try our luck. So we did. And I’m glad we all did because I caught my very first wave on the first ride! Stoked. Completely stoked as hell. Someone’s Costa Rica trip just got better.
Motto for the rest of the week? “Stand and Deliver”. Amen.
I felt powerful and free as I rode the waves over and over again. After the 2 hour lesson, I was completely shattered. We went back to the school and found out that our Spanish teacher had to take an emergency day off. Great! No lessons!
That can only mean one thing – a LONG LONG lunch. We stuffed our faces with delicious seafood sandwiches (I had a Wahoo sarnie which was the bee’s knees) at the Taco Seafood Bar down the road. It was orgasmic.
Got back, had a dip in the pool whilst the Costa Rican sun shone brightly and chatted with Mike, Steven & Matt. I was still buzzing from my morning’s performance. Well. I still am. I shall never forget that moment.
We’re waiting around the open-spaced kitchen area now for the others to finish their Yoga class at 18:00hrs. Then it’s dinner and probably bedtime for the Lim Meister General. Tomorrow, I surf at 11:30hrs. I can’t hardly wait.